Wednesday, 17 April 2024

Mykolaiv on the Dnister: Landmarks in and Around Town

To find landmarks at every step, inquisitive tourists with a passion for little-known routes, having had their fill of strolls around noisy Lviv, move on to the quiet and sparsely populated Mykolaiv, located 30 kilometres south of the regional centre. In ancient and medieval times the lands of today's Mykolaiv area were conquered, annexed, destroyed and revived again, and to strengthen the borders both defenders and conquerors built fortified zones with fortifications to protect the crossing over the Dnister.

Mykolaiv, Lviv Oblast. A view of the town from the artillery positions
Mykolaiv, Lviv Oblast. A view of the town from the artillery positions

Especially well preserved is the line of fortifications on the northern side of the town, which were used during the fighting in the years of the First World War.
 

The field batteries are a gallery of horizontal workings formed by the weathering of the rock on the slope of the cliff, and later improved by the military engineers of the then Austrian Empire.

Mykolaiv. The line of First World War fortifications

Mykolaiv. The line of First World War fortifications

Mykolaiv. The line of First World War fortifications

Mykolaiv. The line of First World War fortifications
Mykolaiv. The line of First World War fortifications

The tunnels, dug into the sandstone strata in the shape of an arch, end in a blind wall but are connected to one another by passages. There are niches in the side walls and firing openings above. Howitzers were installed in the recessed artillery positions. The offensive was carried out by Russian troops during the Brusilov breakthrough.
 
Mykolaiv. Tunnels of the First World War artillery positions

Mykolaiv. Tunnels of the First World War artillery positions

Mykolaiv. Tunnels of the First World War artillery positions

Mykolaiv. Tunnels of the First World War artillery positions

Mykolaiv. The artillery positions
Mykolaiv. The artillery positions

There are other theories about the use of these grottoes of wind-erosion origin. Signs set up on the hill state that in the 13th–14th centuries the caves housed a rock-cut temple. The archaeological site is protected as part of the "Stilske Hillfort" historical and cultural reserve. The Mykolaiv fort conceals a host of riddles and unsolved events, and the answers to these questions are hidden beneath the weight of centuries and stone boulders. Research continues and needs funding and greater interest in preserving this cultural heritage site of Lviv Oblast. Despite the heartfelt plea left as an inscription near the mouth of the adit, addressing careless tourists, picnickers are in no hurry to take away their rubbish and even smash glass bottles.

Mykolaiv. The caves of the artillery positions

Mykolaiv. The artillery positions
Mykolaiv. The artillery positions

The remains of Austrian redoubts, pillboxes and trenches are scattered across the whole outskirts of Mykolaiv, and you can see them by walking through and around the town, taking in other architectural and natural landmarks along the way. A good landmark is the pysanka chapel on Mount Vysokyi Kamin, which is visible from several kilometres away, and from the heights a panorama of the town and its surroundings opens up.
 

Mykolaiv's history dates back to 1570, when a descendant of Silesian knights, Mykola Tarlo – after whom the town is named – obtained permission from the Polish king to build a town with Magdeburg rights. The town's coat of arms, crowned with fortress walls in the form of a crown, depicts an oak with a spreading canopy and root, symbolising might and strength. The dove signifies decency and purity, while the axe is taken from the coat of arms of the town's founder, Mykola Tarlo.

Mykolaiv. The town's coat of arms with an oak, dove and axe

Mykolaiv. The town's coat of arms
Mykolaiv. The town's coat of arms 

The crossroads encouraged weekly markets and a fair twice a year. Today the historic Market Square (Rynok) is lined with administrative and commercial buildings from the first half of the 20th century.
 
Mykolaiv. Market Square

Mykolaiv. Market Square

Mykolaiv. Market Square
Mykolaiv. Market Square

In the very heart of the market square, a monument to T. H. Shevchenko was erected in 1992.
 
Mykolaiv. The monument to T. H. Shevchenko
Mykolaiv. The monument to T. H. Shevchenko

For the 2000th anniversary of the Nativity of Christ, a figure of the Most Holy Mother of God was erected.
 
Mykolaiv. The sculpture of the Most Holy Mother of God
Mykolaiv. The sculpture of the Most Holy Mother of God

On Sheptytskoho Street, which runs up to Market Square, you can see houses more than 150 years old.
Mykolaiv. Sheptytskoho St.
Mykolaiv. Sheptytskoho St.

In house No. 17, on 3 November 1918, the West Ukrainian People's Republic was proclaimed in Mykolaiv. From 1870 to 1875 this house was home to Ulyana Kravchenko, the first Ukrainian-language  writer and poet in Galicia.
 
Mykolaiv. The house at Sheptytskoho St., 17

Mykolaiv. Sheptytskoho St., 17
Mykolaiv. Sheptytskoho St., 17

Residential buildings from the beginning of the last century have also survived. Houses with narrow, single-window façades, stretched out lengthwise, held living rooms and utility premises under one roof.

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings with narrow façades

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings with narrow façades

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings with narrow façades

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings with narrow façades

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings with narrow façades

Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings
Mykolaiv. Old residential buildings

The construction of religious buildings in Mykolaiv embodied the finest architectural traditions of the local masters. The oldest church in the town was built in the 16th century and consecrated in honour of St. Nicholas. A street clock on the façade of the church shows the exact time.
 
Mykolaiv. The Church of St. Nicholas
Mykolaiv. The Church of St. Nicholas

A Greek Catholic church on Sheptytskoho Street is also consecrated in honour of the patron saint Nicholas. The frescoes in the church were painted by Kornylo Ustyianovych and are considered the finest of his works on religious themes. The Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God was built in 1997 on Myru Street.
 
Mykolaiv. The Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God

Mykolaiv. The Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God
Mykolaiv. The Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God

The Church of the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God was built on Lvivska Street in 2012.
 
Mykolaiv. The Church of the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God
Mykolaiv. The Church of the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God

If a traveller's plans call for more than a superficial acquaintance with Mykolaiv and there is a wish to learn about the town in greater depth, more interested guests can explore archaeological materials and a collection of antique weapons at the local history museum on Sheptytskoho Street. The ethnographic section highlights the history of Mykolaiv's old crafts – pottery and flax processing. 

Mykolaiv. The local history museum
Mykolaiv. The local history museum

Another museum is dedicated to natives of Mykolaiv – the writer and poet Ulyana Kravchenko and the writer, poet and public figure Mykola Ustyianovych.
 
Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

Mykolaiv. The exhibition of the Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum
Mykolaiv. The exhibition of the Ulyana Kravchenko and Mykola Ustyianovych museum

A sculptural depiction of Mykola Ustyianovych and his son Kornylo Ustyianovych stands in the courtyard of the sculptor A. A. Velychko, though the best place for father and son would be on the grounds of the Ustyianovych Art and Memorial Museum in Vovkiv.
 
Mykolaiv. The sculptural depiction of Mykola and Kornylo Ustyianovych
Mykolaiv. The sculptural depiction of Mykola and Kornylo Ustyianovych

Stone and clay have long yielded to the local craftsmen, and the potter's craft was passed down from generation to generation, revealing new talents. Many famous Ukrainian sculptors are natives of Mykolaiv. In 2019, at the intersection of several streets, where masters of clay and stone working have always lived, a monument to the potter was unveiled.
 
Mykolaiv. The monument to the potter
Mykolaiv. The monument to the potter

Whatever corner a traveller wanders into, throughout the town they will be accompanied by wonderful sculptures made from the materials of local quarries.

Mykolaiv. The monument to the victims of the Holodomors
Mykolaiv. The monument to the victims of the Holodomors

A memorial plaque to the spiritual father Volodymyr Fedosevych
A memorial plaque to the spiritual father Volodymyr Fedosevych

The creators of these works, from various towns of Ukraine and abroad, took part in art plein-airs and donated their works to the town, turning the streets and parks of Mykolaiv into an art space.
 
Mykolaiv. Sculptural compositions in the streets of the town

Mykolaiv. Sculptural compositions
Mykolaiv. Sculptural compositions

Female figures are especially inspiring to the artists, and one could compile a whole gallery of them. 

Mykolaiv. A sculptural composition with a female figure

Mykolaiv. A sculptural composition with a female figure

Mykolaiv. A sculptural composition with a female figure


Mykolaiv. A sculptural composition with a female figure


Mykolaiv. Sculptural compositions
Mykolaiv. Sculptural compositions

Lions have never lived in the Lviv region, yet the king of beasts is moulded and carved in various sizes and always majestic.
 
Mykolaiv. Lion sculptures

Mykolaiv. Lion sculptures
Mykolaiv. Lion sculptures

Some compositions still need to find the right place.
 
Mykolaiv. Sculptures awaiting their time
Mykolaiv. Sculptures awaiting their time

Lovers of wall painting leave quotations and aphorisms in prominent places.
 
Mykolaiv. Wall paintings with quotations and aphorisms

Mykolaiv. Wall paintings
Mykolaiv. Wall paintings

A town with a population of 15,000 is not inferior to many district and regional centres in terms of tourist appeal. The Dnister, lakes, forest, historical and architectural landmarks, parks and museums deserve travellers' attention and a place on the list of hikes and excursions around the Lviv region.

Mykolaiv. A park
Mykolaiv. A park



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