Rakhiv. I Wish You to Be Better! I Wish You Growth and Prosperity

My first acquaintance with Rakhiv, forgive me for being honest, left no pleasant impressions. There were many situations I did not like. Contemplating the rubbish overflowing the mountain Tysa brought no pleasure. The trading kiosks fastened onto one of the town's main shrines, the Church of St John of Nepomuk, look highly unattractive. It is sad to look at the disfigured facades of the constructivist-style buildings erected during the Czechoslovak period. Do the cluttered Burkut Park and the unsanitary state of the mineral-water spring of the same name awaken any aesthetic pleasure? My notes from three years ago provoked a storm of disagreement from the town's residents, which is understandable. But three years have passed, I am in Rakhiv again, and I want to see the town's favourable sides and change my opinion of the highest mountain town in Ukraine.

 

I set off beside the sorrowful Tysa. Rivers have always been important water resources; they affect the cultural and ecological state of towns and define the quality of life in a region. The residents of the Carpathian villages have an ineradicable tradition of dumping their household waste into rivers, streams and brooks – "the water will carry it all away". Tons of rubbish migrate down the longest tributary of the Danube, turning the silver-blue Tysa into a multicoloured rubbish chute. There are many publications about this disgrace, but for the people of Transcarpathia the cart has still not moved an inch.

 

Rakhiv. The Tysa River

If you want to get to know a town, you have to lose yourself in it. There is more and more intrusive advertising, signage and remodelling, and it is hard to catch the original authenticity amid the urban development.

Rakhiv. Myru Street

The central thoroughfare, Myru Street, is linked to the parallel Shevchenka Street by Tykha Street – a narrow, short (about 100 metres), one-way little lane.

Rakhiv. Shevchenka Street

Rakhiv. Tykha Street

Unfortunately, Rakhiv lacks the pedestrian "hundred-metre" promenade that is traditional for tourist towns. The signs depict the coat of arms of Rakhiv with the town's official symbol – a silver deer with golden antlers. Informative and reverent. The graceful animal is considered native to the Carpathians, yet increasingly the spotted fallow deer and the noble does and stags are kept for showing to tourists at deer farms and private enclosures.

 

Rakhiv. Tykha Street

The old Burkut Street stretches along the watercourse of the same name up to Burkut Park.

Rakhiv. Burkut Street

Seemingly calm and shallow, this tributary of the Tysa reacts harshly to the thoughtless, unauthorised felling of forests and can be treacherous. After prolonged downpours, large stones and mud are swept down from the bare mountains in the muddy currents, the water level rises, and the Burkut overflows its stone banks, causing destructive floods.

 

Rakhiv. The Burkut Brook

It pleases the eye to contemplate the private houses built in the traditions of folk Hutsul architecture.

 

Rakhiv. Burkut Street

And here is the climb up into Burkut Park – I would rather not notice the negative moments, but the tallest larches in the country will soon cry out for themselves: "Peo-o-ople, stop pelting us with plastic and glass, organise a clean-up, take care of this park – a monument of landscape-gardening art!". The Burkut mineral-water spring is considered one of Rakhiv's highlights. The stream barely trickles and urgently needs tidying up and a more respectful regard for its healing water.

Rakhiv. Spring No. 4

Rakhiv. Burkut Park

A question for the residents of Rakhiv. Do you like the placement of the monument to the Afghan-war veterans in a residential neighbourhood beside the library and a medical facility, rather than in a dedicated spot alongside the other military memorials? Ukrainians fought and died on foreign soil for invented ideals, performing an unjustified "international duty". The stele still bears propaganda symbols and inscriptions made in the Russian language.

 

Rakhiv. Monument to the Afghan-war veterans

A little more strolling along the sparsely peopled streets, and a few stops beside houses with distinctive features.

 

Rakhiv. Verbnyk Street

Verbnyk Street partly runs along the Tysa and is distinguished not by plantings of willow but of the newly fashionable sakura. The blossoming season of the Japanese cherry inspires admiration, while the felled and uncollected trees floating in the long-suffering Tysa are no compliment to the municipal services.

 

Rakhiv. The Tysa River and felled trees

It is impossible to buy, as a keepsake, a souvenir or treats made by the craftspeople of the Rakhiv district. The little shops and kiosks sell imported goods, while one longs for something of Hutsul make.

 

Rakhiv. Wooden decoration of a shop

It is unclear why some tourist companies call Rakhiv the "Hutsul Paris". What is the catch? Let the distinctive traits and features of this district centre of Transcarpathia be unique and wonderful, and may the proximity of the geographical centre of Europe (the village of Dilove) inspire the residents of Rakhiv to make their town more attractive.

Rakhiv. The Tysa River