Wednesday, 10 August 2016

Truskavets. A luxurious and elite resort in a historic and picturesque setting

Truskavets is one of the best resorts in Ukraine, known since the middle of the 19th century. A mild climate, beautiful nature, mineral-water springs and other beneficial factors fostered the growth of this health resort in the 20th century.

Трускавець
Трускавець

I honestly don't know what else could be a calling card for Truskavets, if not the mineral-water pump room. But I still had to reach it from the bus station, about 1,200 metres, now climbing uphill, now going back down.

Трускавець. Вулиця Дрогобицька

In the middle of the traffic interchange there is a working fountain. On a hot day the jets of water freshen the air and remind you that this is a town where the water has magical properties.

Трускавець. Водограй

I always pay attention to the state of monuments. Clearly the war memorial has not fallen into ruin over time, but it needs attention.

Трускавець. Військовий меморіал

Wherever you cast your eye, the whole town is sanatoriums and hotels. Some have been operating since time immemorial — multi-storey buildings where guests from all the regions of the USSR used to holiday.

Трускавець. Готель Бескид

Трускавець. Санаторій Дніпро

There are many modern ones, built to original designs.

Трускавець. Готель Золота корона

Трускавець. Вілла Ірина

Трускавець. Готель

Quite a few new hotels are being built.

Трускавець. Готель

Трускавець. Готель

Among them, the few surviving old wooden houses look like museum exhibits.

Трускавець. Дерев'яний будинок по вул. О. Довбуша

In the centre you come across old wooden villas. This one was built in 1928 by Raimund Jarosz, the owner of the Truskavets resort. It now houses the M. O. Bilas Art Museum, where 150 works of the artist are on display.

Трускавець. Художній музей М. О. Біласа

The "Victoria" villa was built in 1843 using half-timbered construction, which is rarely found in Ukraine, and it is an architectural monument.

Трускавець. Вілла Вікторія

The "Mozart" villa is a little over a hundred years old — it dates from 1898.

Трускавець. Вілла Моцарт

The "Park" hotel is a three-storey wooden building, erected at the end of the 19th century in the Carpathian style with decorative elements of Hutsul wood carving.

Трускавець. Готель Парк

I saw other sanatoriums too, whose buildings are architectural monuments, but entry to them is forbidden, as the signs make clear.

Трускавець. Санаторій

The Palace of Culture, decorated with a mosaic panel depicting dancers and singers, did not look like a place of mass cultural recreation. As everywhere, the spaces of cultural institutions had been taken over by little shops selling Chinese consumer goods. On the square that bears his name, the Kobzar has sat down with his thoughts.

Трускавець. Палац культури і пам'ятник Т. Г. Шевченку

By the Roman Catholic church, Pope John Paul II with a blessing.

Трускавець. Пам'ятник Папі Римському Іоанну Павлу II

Трускавець. Костел Успіння Пресвятої Діви Марії

All the holidaying folk were strolling on Independence Square, waiting for the pump room to open.

Трускавець. Площа Незалежності

The pump room works to a schedule. Before it opens, holidaymakers gather from all directions. I too tried "Naftusia". The "Horianka" spring, the healing water of which I sampled during the Carpathian Tram trip, seemed to me tastier.

Трускавець. Бювет мінеральних вод

Here the holidaymakers consume mineral waters by the decalitre, revelling in their healing properties. In the intervals there is choral singing by amateurs and professionals of the vocal genre.

Трускавець. Колонада перед бюветом

Having drunk the famous water, I took a walk in the park and saw the old pump room. You cannot get to it now — it is a water-catchment zone.

Трускавець. Старий бювет

An old monument to holidaymakers has survived in the park, set up in those distant times when Truskavets was an all-Union health resort and holidaymakers came to the resort with the whole family on a trade-union voucher. The sculptural composition is that very happy Soviet family. True, the monument, with the passage of events, has a neglected look. The facing of the pedestal has crumbled, and the family is barely visible amid the thickets of trees.

Трускавець. Пам'ятник відпочиваючим

On the square, local artists were exhibiting their canvases. I had seen very similar still lifes in Yalta on the Embankment. Forest landscapes and views of Lviv could be found at other Carpathian resorts.

Трускавець. Виставка-продаж картин
In the recreation area a saxophonist was playing medleys from films very well. He was drowned out by the voices of show business drifting from the numerous restaurants. On the summer stage a mini-miss contest, "Truskavka", was under way. Delighted parents doted on their ten-year-old daughters taking part in the tournament. One little miss had a costume decorated with a picture of a strawberry. It is no coincidence that the name Truskavets comes from the Polish "truskawka", which means "strawberry".

Трускавець. Конкурс Міні-міс Трускавка
And in the Church of St Nicholas, other children were taking their first communion at the end of the school year, and that too was a great popular celebration.

Трускавець. Церква святого Миколая

Near the church there are several sculptures and monuments.

Трускавець. Скульптура Божої матері з немовлям
Трускавець. Пам'ятник Андрію Шептицькому

Трускавец Пам'ятник Борцям за волю України

Трускавець. Скульптура Ісус і самарянка

For I. Ya. Franko no more fitting or better place could be found. After all, the Drohobych region is the native land of the Kameniar (the Stonecutter).

Трускавець. Пам'ятник І. Я. Франку

On the way back I stepped onto the grounds of the Church of the Protection of the Most Holy Mother of God.

Трускавець. Церква Покрови Пресвятої Богородиці

Beside the church a very beautiful area has been laid out with exotic plants, and a viewing platform from which a wonderful view of Truskavets opens up.

Трускавець. Водограй на території церкви

Трускавець. Оглядовий майданчик на території церкви Покрова Пресвятої Богородиці

Трускавець. Територія церкви Покрова Пресвятої Богородиці

The town also has the Orthodox Church of St Elijah.

Трускавець. Церква святого Іллі

Everything is so beautiful in Truskavets, but the street clock was showing the wrong time.

Трускавець

Unfortunately, I could not withdraw money from a PrivatBank ATM — there was no cash. And I did not like the enormous number of cars on the streets, trucks among them driving about. On a hot day the air was like that of a big city, not a resort.
The main thing for treatment is the water. But I cannot say that Truskavets, crowded and clogged with cars, appealed to me more than other resorts. These are my impressions, which I share with you.

Трускавець

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