Wednesday, 10 August 2016

Truskavets. An Elite Resort in a Picturesque Setting

Truskavets is one of the best resorts in Ukraine, known since the middle of the 19th century. A mild climate, beautiful nature, mineral-water springs and other beneficial factors fostered the growth of this health resort in the 20th century.

Truskavets
Truskavets

I honestly don't know what else could be a calling card for Truskavets, if not the mineral-water pump room. But I still had to reach it from the bus station, about 1,200 metres, now climbing uphill, now going back down.

Truskavets. Drohobytska Street

In the middle of the traffic interchange there is a working fountain. On a hot day the jets of water freshen the air and remind you that this is a town where the water has magical properties.

Truskavets. The fountain

I always pay attention to the state of monuments. Clearly the war memorial has not fallen into ruin over time, but it needs attention.

Truskavets. The war memorial

Wherever you cast your eye, the whole town is sanatoriums and hotels. Some have been operating since time immemorial — multi-storey buildings where guests from all the regions of the USSR used to holiday.

Truskavets. The 'Beskyd' hotel

Truskavets. The 'Dnipro' sanatorium

There are many modern ones, built to original designs.

Truskavets. The 'Zolota Korona' hotel

Truskavets. The 'Iryna' villa

Truskavets. A hotel

Quite a few new hotels are being built.

Truskavets. A hotel

Truskavets. A hotel

Among them, the few surviving old wooden houses look like museum exhibits.

Truskavets. A wooden house on O. Dovbush Street

In the centre you come across old wooden villas. This one was built in 1928 by Raimund Jarosz, the owner of the Truskavets resort. It now houses the M. O. Bilas Art Museum, where 150 works of the artist are on display.

Truskavets. The M. O. Bilas Art Museum

The "Victoria" villa was built in 1843 using half-timbered construction, which is rarely found in Ukraine, and it is an architectural monument.

Truskavets. The 'Viktoriia' villa

The "Mozart" villa is a little over a hundred years old — it dates from 1898.

Truskavets. The 'Mozart' villa

The "Park" hotel is a three-storey wooden building, erected at the end of the 19th century in the Carpathian style with decorative elements of Hutsul wood carving.

Truskavets. The 'Park' hotel

I saw other sanatoriums too, whose buildings are architectural monuments, but entry to them is forbidden, as the signs make clear.

Truskavets. A sanatorium

The Palace of Culture, decorated with a mosaic panel depicting dancers and singers, did not look like a place of mass cultural recreation. As everywhere, the spaces of cultural institutions had been taken over by little shops selling Chinese consumer goods. On the square that bears his name, the Kobzar has sat down with his thoughts.

Truskavets. The Palace of Culture and the monument to T. H. Shevchenko

By the Roman Catholic church, Pope John Paul II with a blessing.

Truskavets. A monument to Pope John Paul II

Truskavets. The Roman Catholic Church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin Mary

All the holidaying folk were strolling on Independence Square, waiting for the pump room to open.

Truskavets. Independence Square

The pump room works to a schedule. Before it opens, holidaymakers gather from all directions. I too tried "Naftusia". The "Horianka" spring, the healing water of which I sampled during the Carpathian Tram trip, seemed to me tastier.

Truskavets. The mineral water pump room

Here the holidaymakers consume mineral waters by the decalitre, revelling in their healing properties. In the intervals there is choral singing by amateurs and professionals of the vocal genre.

Truskavets. The colonnade in front of the pump room

Having drunk the famous water, I took a walk in the park and saw the old pump room. You cannot get to it now — it is a water-catchment zone.

Truskavets. The old pump room

An old monument to holidaymakers has survived in the park, set up in those distant times when Truskavets was an all-Union health resort and holidaymakers came to the resort with the whole family on a trade-union voucher. The sculptural composition is that very happy Soviet family. True, the monument, with the passage of events, has a neglected look. The facing of the pedestal has crumbled, and the family is barely visible amid the thickets of trees.

Truskavets. A monument to the holidaymakers

On the square, local artists were exhibiting their canvases. I had seen very similar still lifes in Yalta on the Embankment. Forest landscapes and views of Lviv could be found at other Carpathian resorts.

Truskavets. An exhibition and sale of paintings
In the recreation area a saxophonist was playing medleys from films very well. He was drowned out by the voices of show business drifting from the numerous restaurants. On the summer stage a mini-miss contest, "Truskavka", was under way. Delighted parents doted on their ten-year-old daughters taking part in the tournament. One little miss had a costume decorated with a picture of a strawberry. It is no coincidence that the name Truskavets comes from the Polish "truskawka", which means "strawberry".

Truskavets. The 'Mini-Miss Truskavka' contest
And in the Church of St Nicholas, other children were taking their first communion at the end of the school year, and that too was a great popular celebration.

Truskavets. The church of St Nicholas

Near the church there are several sculptures and monuments.

Truskavets. A sculpture of the Mother of God with the infant
Truskavets. A monument to Andrei Sheptytskyi

Truskavets. A monument to the Fighters for the Freedom of Ukraine

Truskavets. The sculpture of Jesus and the Samaritan woman

For I. Ya. Franko no more fitting or better place could be found. After all, the Drohobych region is the native land of the Kameniar (the Stonecutter).

Truskavets. A monument to I. Ya. Franko

On the way back I stepped onto the grounds of the Church of the Protection of the Most Holy Mother of God.

Truskavets. The Church of the Protection of the Most Holy Mother of God

Beside the church a very beautiful area has been laid out with exotic plants, and a viewing platform from which a wonderful view of Truskavets opens up.

Truskavets. The fountain on the church grounds

Truskavets. The viewing platform on the grounds of the Church of the Protection of the Most Holy Mother of God

Truskavets. The grounds of the Church of the Protection of the Most Holy Mother of God

The town also has the Orthodox Church of St Elijah.

Truskavets. The church of St Elijah

Everything is so beautiful in Truskavets, but the street clock was showing the wrong time.

Truskavets

Unfortunately, I could not withdraw money from a PrivatBank ATM — there was no cash. And I did not like the enormous number of cars on the streets, trucks among them driving about. On a hot day the air was like that of a big city, not a resort.
The main thing for treatment is the water. But I cannot say that Truskavets, crowded and clogged with cars, appealed to me more than other resorts. These are my impressions, which I share with you.

Truskavets

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