Tuesday, 6 September 2016

If you have never been to Kremenets...

Kremenets is a town in the north of the Ternopil region, known since the 13th century. The uniqueness of this town is that however many times you come here, you will always find something new and interesting.
Kremenets
More than 50 monuments of history and architecture alone have survived, and each has its own story and legend.
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill)
Castle Hill, 397 metres high, rises above the town, with the remains of an ancient fortress. It can be seen from any point in the town, and the chronicle of Kremenets begins with it.
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill) and the twin houses
The hill's other name is Bona, in honour of the Polish queen Bona Sforza, owner of Kremenets Castle in the 16th century, who strengthened its defences and carted off 70 wagonloads of all kinds of riches from the town. Legends tell of her insatiable craving for eternal youth, for which she used the blood of young girls to take her baths.
Some sources claim the fortress was built in the 8th — 9th centuries. But the officially accepted date is 1227, when the Hungarian king Andrew II failed to take the fortress. The Cossacks, however, led by Maksym Kryvonis, after a six-week siege not only took the stronghold but destroyed it, after which the fortification lost its defensive significance and was never rebuilt again.
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The fortress
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The fortress
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The fortress
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The fortress
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The fortress
And here there was a well. Legend has it that Bona hides here, guarding her treasures.
Kremenets. Mount Bona (Castle Hill). The remains of the well
Now the hill serves for contemplation and for admiring the panorama of the town.
Kremenets. The view from Mount Bona (Castle Hill)
From here the historic centre of the town is clearly visible, along with its architectural dominant — the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord.
Kremenets. The view from Mount Bona (Castle Hill)
Somewhere in the haze the domes of the Pochaiv Lavra gleam golden; it is part of the Kremenets-Pochaiv Historical and Architectural Reserve. And the Roman Catholic Church of St Stanislaus (1858) is in plain sight.
Kremenets. The Roman Catholic Church of St Stanislaus
A war memorial and other monuments stand on the site of the former Market Square, where in times past fairs seethed with life. After all, Kremenets received Magdeburg rights in 1431.
Kremenets. The view from Mount Bona (Castle Hill)
At the very foot of the hill flows the river Irva, named after the daughter of an ancient prince. Irva was very beautiful, and the chieftain of a nomadic tribe that attacked the town demanded that she be given to him as a wife. The prince answered with a refusal: "Slavic women choose their own bridegrooms", and the silk kerchief sent as a gift Irva tore apart with the words: "When the kerchief becomes whole again, then I will become the stranger's wife". The enraged chieftain gave the order to take the town and carry the girl off by force. The defenders could not overcome the enemy. The desperate Irva snatched up the sword of her fallen father and joined the battle too. Surrounded by the attackers, she threw herself from the cliff onto the rocks. The tears of the unconquered princess formed the river.
Kremenets. The view from the hill
Another significant monument of history and architecture is the ensemble of the Jesuit collegium. The complex of buildings was erected for the powerful monastic order by the architect P. Hizhytsky. Construction lasted 12 years (1731 — 1743). The ensemble, with its shallow ceremonial courtyard, is open to the town and is clearly visible from near and far vantage points. Now it is the Kremenets Humanities and Pedagogical Academy.
Kremenets. The Jesuit collegium
Kremenets. The Jesuit collegium
Kremenets. The Jesuit collegium
Kremenets. The Jesuit collegium
Kremenets. The Jesuit collegium
The Basilica of Saints Ignatius and Stanislaus, or the Jesuit Fathers' Church, is a sacred building erected in the first half of the 18th century in the late Baroque style. Now it is the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord of the UOC (KP). The tallest building in the town.
Kremenets. The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord
The enclosing wall has survived the centuries almost undamaged.
Kremenets. The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord
On the grounds of the ensemble stand monuments to T. H. Shevchenko, who was in Kremenets in 1846, and to Tadeusz Czacki, founder of the lyceum in Kremenets.
Kremenets. A monument to Shevchenko
Kremenets. A monument to Tadeusz Czacki
The Juliusz Slowacki Literary Memorial Museum is devoted to the work of the Polish poet and playwright whose childhood and youth were spent in Kremenets. The house was built at the end of the 18th century.
Kremenets. The Juliusz Slowacki Literary Memorial Museum
Opposite the museum, an ordinary slope has been turned into a wonderful rose garden.
Kremenets. The rosarium
Kremenets is a very blossoming town. Be sure to visit the Kremenets Botanical Garden — one of the oldest botanical gardens in Ukraine, founded in 1806; its old-timers — beeches, maples, ashes and sycamores — were planted that same year. In all, several thousand species of plants grow here, including 11 listed in the Red Book. This green gem of the town is entered in the world register of botanical gardens.
Utterly unusual are the twin houses that share a common internal wall — architectural monuments of the 17th century of national significance.
Kremenets. The twin houses (17th century)
The town has a host of other sites that are part of its architectural and cultural heritage: St Nicholas Cathedral, the Lutheran cathedral, the Roman Catholic Church of St Stanislaus, the music school and others.
Kremenets. St Nicholas Cathedral (1830)
If you want to learn the history of the town, go to the museum. The Kremenets Local History Museum was founded in 1937, and its 7 halls hold 5,500 exhibits. It is at 90 Shevchenko Street. The left wing of the building is part of an 18th-century complex.
To make it easier and more convenient to see the sights, you can rent a bicycle. Four routes have been designed, marked with signposts. The longest is 80 km. The short one is 20, but on a shortened plan just 10 km.
Kremenets district. The map of cycling routes
If you find yourself in the Kremenets area, visit the Kremenets training and sports base for Olympic luge preparation.
Kremenets. The toboggan run
Winter sports in the Ternopil region have long-standing traditions. Back in the 1930s, the first ski jumps and a luge track were built in the picturesque surroundings of Kremenets, and ski trails were laid out.
The toboggan-bobsleigh track was built in the early 1970s on an area of 6 hectares. The length of the track is 1,157 m. The vertical drop is 94 m. The number of turns is 15. The maximum design speed is 112 km/h. The maximum gradient of the active section is 20%. Talented young people, our Olympic hope, train here now. In the coaches' opinion, a child can be taught this sport from as early as 5 years old.
Kremenets. The toboggan run
Kremenets. The toboggan run
Kremenets. The toboggan run
When there is no snow, small wheels are screwed onto the sleds, and they serve as sporting equipment all year round. I too made an attempt to ride the sled — thrilling, but very fast; you don't have time to savour the flight to the full.
Kremenets. The toboggan run
The track is located 1.5 km from the town centre.
Kremenets. The Hnyle Ozero tract
Kremenets is the kind of town that deserves to be a tourist mecca. The castle festival is celebrated on 20 May. I thank the organisers of the trip, the luge-track coach and the driver. Special thanks to the guide Dasha, a graduate of the Kremenets Humanities and Pedagogical Academy, for her interesting account and her refinement.

Sites of tourist infrastructure.

The "Ometa" cafe on Shevchenko Street, near St Nicholas Cathedral. I liked the service, the atmosphere and the menu.
Kremenets. The 'Ometa' cafe
Kremenets. The 'Ometa' cafe
The "Stare Misto" hotel, located by Bona Hill, 15 Shevchenko Street.
tel. +380 3546 2 22 29
Bus station: 138 Dubenska Street. Connections with many cities in Ukraine and abroad.
tel. +380 3546 2 22 44
Kremenets-Pochaiv State Historical and Architectural Reserve:
http://kremdiaz.com
6 Kozubskoho Street
tel. +380 3546 2 37 58
Tourism department of the Ternopil Regional Administration:
tel. +380 352 43 42 31; +380 67 688 50 13
Ternopil, Hrushevskoho Street, 8
Kremenets. Information for tourists
Kremenets. Information for tourists


This story is also available in Ukrainian: Якщо в Кременці ти не був...

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