Lake Zhuravlyne — the Dead and the Black

Lviv region is rich not only in historical and architectural monuments built by human hands over many centuries. In this blessed land the sorcerous power of nature draws you to itself with its unique creations.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park. Lake Zhuravlyne. Lviv region

To see a living mystery of the Carpathians, the natural wonder that is Lake Zhuravlyne, you need to get to Skole. From here it is a few kilometres of unpaved road along the Kamianka River. Entry by car into the territory of the Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park is charged for. But early in the morning there is no one to collect the fee.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park

Every two or three steps of the way present you with a new, striking photo frame.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park

Straight out of the rocky massifs, clinging to the monolith with their bent roots, spruces and firs reach up towards the sun.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park. Bank of the Kamianka River

Streams of water gush from the crevices in the rocks, and this healing water is not merely valued here — they call it living water, there is even an inscription on the rock. And the dead water we shall yet see.

In these enchanting places there are fairy-tale images and names. The wooden gazebos call to mind the little huts on chicken legs. So that you do not get lost as in the old tales of dense forests, information signs prompt you with the direction and the distance.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park

From the waterfall on the Kamianka River you need to walk some 300 metres to the path up to the lake.

The waterfall. The Kamianka River

The final push is 350 metres of steep, stony climb. It matters that the soles of your shoes are not slippery. Stones and roots hidden under the wet leaves raise the difficulty of the ascent considerably.

The path to Lake Zhuravlyne

As a reward for the effort spent on the way comes the sight of a mysterious mountain lake, framed by a palisade of mixed forest.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

The mute guardians of legends are reflected in the mirror-like oval, which heightens the spectacle immeasurably and lends this popular object of tourist pilgrimage a mystical tinge.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

And there is mysticism in the names and in the perception of the lake, in the mysterious stories about it. In olden times the marshes and impassable forests swallowed up many a human soul.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

The lake is also called dead because, owing to its saturation with carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulphide, there are no fish or other freshwater creatures in it.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

The fallen trees rotting on the bottom are the source of the gas.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

For a long time the locals gave the bubbling lake a wide berth, and for the dark colour of its surface they named it the Black Lake.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

Most often the beautiful name is the one in use — Zhuravlyne, from the Ukrainian for crane. Here, in the backwoods, cranes once nested freely, unafraid of being disturbed. And there were cranberries beyond measure. But all I saw were fly agarics of incredible size.

The movement of the island seems inexplicable as it constantly circles in a strange waltz. It is made up of an interweaving of logs, branches, grass and moss.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

The lake formed in the distant past, when a gorge between the mountains filled with water, but no one knows the birth date of this body of water. The village of Kamianka has been known since the 18th century, and the lake already existed then. The depth of the reservoir is impossible to determine because of how full it is of fallen trees. For the same reason it is dangerous to swim here — you could become entangled in the trunks and branches.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

From the wooden decking you can watch the island circling in the bottomless expanse, and enjoy the quiet and the views.

Lake Zhuravlyne (the Dead Lake)

Your eye may catch frogs, nimble lizards, newts and the ever-present vipers, all of which feel wonderful here.

A wonderful place to escape the daily routine and feel yourself alone with nature. You do not want to go back, all the more so because the descent is in places harder than the climb.

Skolivski Beskydy National Nature Park

Some tourists are spurred to hurry through the difficult stretches of the road, and not to notice the obstacles, by the fact that, down below in the kolyba, a miraculous moonshine is on sale, infused with Carpathian herbs, roots, needles and firs, which helps to sharpen the senses many times over. Any tourist attraction consists of the object itself, a legend about it, and a cafe where you can taste the dishes of the local cuisine and share your impressions.

To fall under the spell of this wondrous place, you can travel by suburban train from Lviv to Skole or by road to the village of Dubyna. From there, along the route described above, to the Kamianka waterfall by car, but better on foot.

Coordinates: 49°2’6"N 23°34’18"E