Stare Selo. A Renaissance-era castle. Lilac and tailed residents in its loopholes and pits
Even if you have already seen it, or on the contrary have never heard a thing about it, you will certainly slow down beside this grand castle as you drive along the highway through Stare Selo, one of the ancient settlements of the Lviv region. The road and the railway curve in an arc around the great defensive structure, and in the trains and cars the passengers, pressed to the windows, just manage to admire the surviving remains of the medieval fortress.
Stare Selo, Lviv region. The 17th-century castle
The 2 hectares of castle grounds allow the Stare Selo castle to be considered the largest in the Lviv region.
The stronghold was built not on a hill but in a lowland, and the Davydivka River creates an additional obstacle to the fort on the eastern side.
Stare Selo. The castle. The southern corner tower
Over centuries of history and the neglect that followed, this example of medieval defensive architecture has become covered with green vegetation. Not only by the walls, but also on the towers and in the loopholes, wild growth runs riot.
Stare Selo. The northern tower
Stare Selo. The castle. The southern corner tower and the walls
Stare Selo lies 20 kilometres from the regional centre and remains a rural settlement, and beside its main landmark the hens peacefully scratch about and the cows graze. A black cat, unceremoniously darting across the road, reminds you that every castle inevitably has its ghosts — so be ready to meet the true masters of the bastille.
Stare Selo. The castle's guardian
By the entrance, through an arched portal bearing a coat of arms, stands the only information board telling the history of the Stare Selo citadel. The birdsong brings many-voiced life to the solitude and neglect of this former symbol of invincibility.
Stare Selo. The castle. An outside view of the walls
Stare Selo. The coat of arms at the entrance
Stare Selo. The arched entrance to the castle. Exterior view
Stare Selo. The arched entrance. Interior view
The original castle was wooden and appeared on the approaches to Lviv in the middle of the 15th century. In the second half of the 16th century a five-sided fortress, triangular in plan, was built of stone.
Stare Selo. The castle courtyard
As expected, a resident with a refined appearance and a sociable character came out to greet the fortress's visitor. This gentleman of noble blood undoubtedly knows all the legends and every nook and cranny of the ancient strongpoint. Casting a glance at the treat offered to him, the blue-eyed householder declined, in the presence of a stranger, to sample the humble gift and, bowing politely, continued his rounds of the domain. No doubt the little purring fellow has meetings awaiting him in secret corners with the other inhabitants — the birds, the mice, the grass snakes.
Stare Selo. The castle's resident
In the middle of the 17th century the castle was rebuilt in the Renaissance style. Of the six towers, only three have withstood the trials of time and wars. Around the perimeter the walls are 500 metres long. The loopholes in the walls were made in 3 tiers — for close, medium and long-range fighting.
Stare Selo. The castle walls
All the riddles of the Stare Selo stronghold are hidden away in the dungeons — the former storehouses of the castle's riches and of the Lviv arsenal.
The entrance to the Southern tower is dangerous; the pits are concealed by thickets of young growth.
Stare Selo. The southern tower. Interior view
The main, eastern tower is crowned by an attic with refined décor and carved vases.
Stare Selo. The main central tower
You must not go near the fortress walls, because the brick has a habit of falling suddenly — and onto your head. A great many bricks were needed to build the walls, which are 2 metres thick and 8-16 metres high. Legends of deep antiquity have carried down to our day the tale that chicken eggs, brought in from all around the district, were used to make the mortar strong.
Stare Selo. Brick
The hexagonal tower is decorated with a round window and a rectangular one.
Stare Selo. The hexagonal tower
When it lost its defensive significance, the former fortress was turned into a brewery and a distillery. In Soviet times the mighty walls served the collective farm for storing the harvest and agricultural machinery, and even as a club showing films. Neither the collective farming nor the handover on a 49-year concession brought the medieval landmark any advantages in matters of preserving its cultural heritage. The blossoming lilac forms extra rows and galleries on every level, and before long these will turn the castle into one solid green mass.
Stare Selo. The 17th-century castle
On weekends and holidays the fort does not stand empty; the traces of cars and campfires in the castle courtyard testify to its popularity within the tourist community. Entry to the grounds of the Stare Selo castle is free. You can get there by the suburban train Lviv-Khodoriv to Stare Selo station, or by minibus No. 267 from Lviv.
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