Obroshyne. The Archbishops' Palace

To see the true state of an architectural monument, you have to approach it from the rear. More often than not, the front façades are freshened up to pull the wool over your eyes, while in the back yard mismanagement and neglect hold sway. In the fence of the archbishops' palace in Obroshyne, in the Lviv region, the local people, to cut a corner, removed a section of the fence and made a short cut to the centre of the village. Following the Obroshyne folk along the park path, your gaze will open onto a view of this 18th-century architectural monument from a different angle.

 

In the 15th century the Lviv archbishops chose Obroshyne, some 16 km from Lviv, for their summer residence. At the beginning of the 18th century the architect Józef Fontana designed the building of a palace complex in the spirit of a magnate's castle, preserving its architectural and planning elements. The year 1730 is considered the date of construction of the two-storey palace. As in a medieval castle of defensive purpose, rectangular towers were raised at the four corners of the building.

 

Obroshyne. The archbishops' palace. The façade from the park side

The mansard roof with its dormers has been repaired, but everything else looks dismal and is in a dilapidated state. Liana-like plants have replaced the lost stone ornaments and covered the wounds of the shabby palazzo, which is about to turn 300 years old.

 

Broken windows, crumbling stairs, chipped-off stucco; pieces of roof tile and fragments of decorative trim lie scattered everywhere.

 

The surviving bas-reliefs of wondrous animals and lions bear witness to the sumptuous decoration of the residence.

The urns at the entrance were once decorated with flowers, angels, little birds and animals. A floral ornament has wound around two pairs of columns and is holding on with its last strength, reinforced by that unforgettable lime whitewash.

By this staircase, guests and hosts would step out into the palace park.

 

The green setting numbers about 60 kinds of plantings — oaks, maples, lindens, walnuts, a tulip tree, thujas, magnolias and plane trees.

 

Obroshyne. The arboretum

The main avenue, 160 metres long, leads from the palace to the zoo, which is also located within the arboretum. In May 2023 the area with the animal enclosure was fenced off with a tall profiled fence and closed to visitors. There are no notices of any kind, but according to local residents the menagerie is being reconstructed at a brisk pace, and there are plans to open a café as well as various entertainment attractions. We hope that the restoration of this recreation area will help preserve the chance to be around the animals, and will also encourage patrons to get involved in reviving Obroshyne's main landmark. The ponds, the trees, the central glade and the flower beds make up the ensemble of this arboretum, which has scientific and aesthetic value and protected status at the state level.

 

Obroshyne. The zoo

The final part of the tour, taking in the front façade, will be somewhat more pleasant than what you saw at the start of your acquaintance with the archbishops' mansion. About 10 years ago the palazzo was painted a pinkish-peach colour. A coat of arms crowns the three-sided risalit, and the balcony above the entrance, with its spiral columns, is adorned with ornate stucco and a mascaron.

 

Obroshyne. The archbishops' palace. The main façade

Two stone guardians, in their traditional lime paint, have moved from their pedestals onto the staircase landing.

 

The wars of the 20th century and uninvited guests left the palace plundered and torn apart. In Soviet times the building housed a research institute of agriculture and animal husbandry, but the presence of a serious owner did nothing to preserve the monument. The building and the central gate, with its outbuildings, form a palace square, in the centre of which a flower garden has been laid out and a bust of Ivan Franko installed — facing someone else's residence and turning its back on the central entrance. Evidently, the spot chosen to immortalise the name of the national poet was not an entirely happy one. It would be more fitting for memorial signs to our enlighteners and awakeners to be unveiled on central squares, near educational institutions, community halls and libraries.

 

Obroshyne. The bust of Ivan Franko

The ceremonial entrance, with its two-storey towers and columns, was built in the Baroque style. A chapel is housed in the right-hand one.

 

Two sculpted gatekeepers, one with a hat and one without, are made facing into the courtyard and seem to see guests off rather than greet them.

Obroshyne. The gate of the archbishops' palace

And to finish, from the palace to the H13 highway Lviv-Sambir-Uzhhorod, visitors will stroll down a fragrant, kilometre-long avenue of ancient lindens and chestnuts.

Obroshyne. The avenue of chestnuts and lindens

Address of the archbishops' palace: the village of Obroshyne, Lviv region. The centre of the village.

Coordinates: 49°46'58"N 23°52'5"E

From Lviv you can get there by the suburban trains Lviv-Mukachevo and Lviv-Sianky to Obroshyn station, or by buses No. 685 and 690 from the "Zakhidna" bus station, No. 187 from the market by the railway station, and No. 126 and 722 from the station square — to the village of Obroshyne.

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This story is also available in Ukrainian: Оброшине. Палац архієпископів. З заднього двору до парадної брами