Wednesday, 18 July 2018

The Mysterious and Treacherous Tarakaniv Fort. Stories, Legends, Riddles

The Tarakaniv Fort is one of the most mystical sites of Ukraine. It is not included in the routes of organised tourists, and you will not read about it in the magazine-catalogues for travellers. It is not like other fortresses and castles, but its history has preserved no fewer secrets and riddles than the popular places of tourist pilgrimage.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. The barracks and the side casemates

The name of this monument of history and architecture of the 19th century is not connected with the repulsive insects; it is called so because it is located near the village of Tarakaniv, which until the 19th century was known as Torokaniv.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Казарма в центрі форту
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. The barracks in the centre of the fort

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід в підземні лабіринти
The entrance to the underground labyrinths
The citadel is also called the Dubno Fort, but do not confuse the defensive structure near Tarakaniv with the citadel founded in the 10th century in chronicled Dubno.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Рів і стіна, що зміцнює вал
The moat and the wall reinforcing the rampart

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Казарма в центрі форту, рів і стіна, що зміцнює вал
The barracks in the centre of the fort, the moat and the wall reinforcing the rampart
On the Kyiv-Chop highway, 4 kilometres from Dubno, there is a signpost to the location of the Tarakaniv stronghold. Turning south-east in the southern part of Tarakaniv, you need to drive 650 metres along a dirt road, whose verge is occupied by hogweed. The road is so narrow that you will barely manage to pass an oncoming car.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Зарості борщівнику на території застави
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. Thickets of hogweed on the grounds of the outpost
Still, there is a small area for parking cars, and there is even a toilet of the outhouse type on it. Here, too, the local guides sell souvenir goods, unobtrusively offer guide services, and conduct a brief safety briefing for the visit to the fortress.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Зелені ліани прикривають фортифікаційну споруду
Green lianas cover the fortification structure
Right on the eve of my arrival, a misfortune happened. A local lad fell into a deep well. The blows and injuries proved incompatible with life. And afterwards I saw huge pools of blood at the place of his death.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Склепіння лабіринтів
The vaults of the labyrinths

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Фортечні гроти
The fortress grottoes
Yes, this place is not for a solo hike, and, setting out here, you need to be as careful as possible, to have comfortable footwear and torches for lighting in the half-darkness of the galleries.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Несчисленні коридори форту
The countless corridors of the fort

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід до коридорів форту
The entrance to the corridors of the fort
You must move only along the paths, away from the ruined buildings, to avoid injury from falling bricks.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Стежка між казрмою і стіною
The path between the barracks and the wall

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Цегляна архітектура форту
The brick architecture of the fort
Having entered the grounds of the outpost, you find yourself in an atmosphere of the dominance of steadfastness and inviolability.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід в коридорний лабіринт
The entrance to the corridor labyrinth

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід в фортечний тунель
The entrance to the fortress tunnel
The first impression is of impregnability and neglect.


Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Склепіння коридорів
The vaults of the corridors
Despite the desolation, the place is simply steeped in the spirit of grandeur and fundamentality.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід в підземний бункер
The entrance to the underground bunker

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Галерея форту
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. A gallery of the fort
Stories, legends, myths — much is held within this former fortification structure, and now an emptied military site, which is extraordinarily interesting to daring researchers, chance travellers, ubiquitous treasure-hunters and scrap-metal collectors.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Світло в кінці тунелю
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. The light at the end of the tunnel

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вихід з тунелю
The exit from the tunnel
It is known from history that, after the third partition of Poland, the border between the Russian and Austrian empires ran along the line Zbarazh-Brody-Berestechko-Sokal. By the order of the tsarist government, to protect the Lviv-Kyiv railway and other strategic sites, defensive structures were built.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Кам'яні коридори, вентіляційні ходи
The stone corridors, the ventilation passages

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Цегляна кладка добре збереглася
The brickwork has survived well
The erection of the fort near Dubno, by the Ikva river, began with the heaping-up of a huge hill in the 1860s. The facts speak of the importance of the special project. An astronomical sum of 66 million roubles was allocated for the construction of the fortified area. For comparison: a cow cost 8-10 roubles.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вхід в підземний тунель
The entrance to the underground tunnel

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Вікна казематів
The windows of the casemates
For the first time here, together with stone and brick, concrete was used for maximum impregnability.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Зелене простирадло вкрило фортецю
A green sheet has covered the fortress
The renowned fortification engineer, General Eduard Totleben, was appointed head of the construction of the fortification. The visit of the tsar's family in 1890 testified to the fortress's commissioning. On the eve of the First World War, the fort was inspected by the renowned military engineer D. M. Karbyshev.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Дикі ліани та борщівник проникли у всі перекриття споруди
Wild lianas and hogweed have penetrated all the floors of the structure

The creation of ingenious engineering thought occupies an area of 5.8 hectares. In the centre of the concrete-and-earth fortification, in the shape of a rhombus with sides up to 240 metres, is a two-level barracks, which in plan resembles a trapezoid with rounded edges. Four underground passages lead to it.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. План форту
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. The plan of the fort

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. План казематів. Верхній ярус
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort. The plan of the casemates. The upper tier
The garrison could accommodate up to 800 people. Here there was everything needed for the army's life support: storehouses, an arsenal, a medical unit, heating, an electrical network, a water supply, wells, a bakery, telephone communication.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт
The Tarakaniv (Dubno) Fort

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Споруди форту
The structures of the fort
From the outside, the citadel is surrounded by a moat and earthen ramparts, which in turn are reinforced with walls two metres wide and six metres high.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Стіна декорована цегляним орнаментом
The wall is decorated with a brick ornament
But the Tarakaniv bastille was not destined to become a true defender of the fatherland's frontiers. In 1915 the Russian army left the fort without bloodshed, having first blown up part of the casemates and bunkers. The Austrians took up combat positions and were driven out in 1916 by the enemy. Two hundred soldiers of the Habsburg army are buried by the fortress.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Сходи на другий ярус
The stairs to the second tier

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Сходи як у палацах
Stairs as in palaces
In 1920 neither aviation nor the armoured train "Khorobryi" (Brave) helped S. M. Budyonny's Red cavalry to recapture the stronghold. The Polish garrison fought bravely as long as the artillery supplies lasted, and afterwards broke through the Red Army's encirclement.

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Внутрішні приміщення казарми
The inner premises of the barracks

Тараканівський (Дубенський) форт. Прохід в казармах
A passage in the barracks
During the fighting, the fort suffered considerable destruction.

Тараканів. Форт. Пам'ятка архітектури
Tarakaniv. The fort. An architectural monument
During the Second World War, the fortress once again did not fulfil its defensive purpose.

Тараканів. Форт. Пам'ятка інженерного мистецтва
Tarakaniv. The fort. A monument of engineering art
The Hitlerites placed ammunition depots in the numerous branchings and corridors of the casemates. There is a version that a research unit of the most secret Nazi organisation, the Ahnenerbe, was located here. The fascists tested new secret weapons in the soundly built structures. And before retreating at the beginning of 1944, they mined and concreted over the equipment in the tunnels so that it still cannot be found.

Тараканів. Форт. Ці стіни пам'ятають багато подій
These walls remember many events

Тараканів. Форт. Сходи в казематах
The stairs in the casemates
In 1946-1960 a detachment of NKVD officers was stationed here. What the Chekists did in the casemate is a mystery under seven seals. Perhaps patriotically minded Ukrainians were shot in the lockup. It is known from rumours that many NKVD men got lost and died in the underground labyrinths.

Тараканів. Форт. Коридори в казармах
Corridors in the barracks

Тараканів. Форт. Приміщення в казармах
Tarakaniv. The fort. Premises in the barracks
The riddles of the fort give adventure-seekers no peace. Every year, careless adventurers and searchers go missing on the grounds of the fort. The depth of the pits and chasms in the unexplored underground passages reaches 20 metres.

Тараканів. Форт. Колодязь
Tarakaniv. The fort. A well
The stone walls and ceilings, which seem sturdy, have without proper care become shaky and treacherous, and the fort, as it were, has not forgiven that it was underestimated and not used for its intended purpose.

Тараканів. Форт. Кріпосна стіна
The fortress wall
For many decades, tales of ghosts have been passed from mouth to mouth. There are witnesses to the sighting of phantoms and the spirits of Polish and Austrian soldiers. Local residents claim that they have heard a foreign language and the clicking of rifle bolts on the grounds of the fort.

Тараканів. Форт. В кожній фортеці живуть привиди
Every fortress is home to ghosts
In the 1960s there were unsuccessful attempts to set up a warehouse of tinned produce in the defensive structure. For this, special work was carried out to clear the casemates, install shelving and set up doors. No, it was not for this that the masterpiece of engineering art was erected. Storing produce, and afterwards the spare parts for the military unit's fleet of vehicles, turned out to be impossible.

Тараканів. Форт. Занедбаний фортифікаційний об'єкт
Tarakaniv. The fort. An abandoned fortification site
Adapted for nothing and neglected, the architectural monument continues to fall into ruin, and there is no hope at all of its restoration. To view the historic landmark of the 19th century, you should choose a time that is not in rainy weather. Bear in mind that from June, hogweed covers all the approaches with a green mass. This harmful allergen plant burns exposed areas of skin.

Тараканів. Форт. Всюди буйно квітне борщівник
Hogweed blooms luxuriantly everywhere
The fort is located, as stated above, in the southern part of the village of Tarakaniv, Dubno district, Rivne region, 650 metres south-east of the M-06 Kyiv-Chop highway. From Dubno to the turn you can get by scheduled bus or by taxi. The staff of the Dubno castle can give you the telephone number of a guide with a car. Entry to the imperishable combat fortification is free. Hurry to visit this fantastic place!

Coordinates: 50°21'47"N 25°42'58"E

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