Wednesday, 22 February 2017

The Hoshiv Monastery. A Pilgrimage Centre in Dolyna

Above the Subcarpathian village of Hoshiv, on the summit of Yasna Hora (Bright Mountain), rises the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Lord, a place of pilgrimage for Christians from all over the world.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery
The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

I approach the monastery along the Way of the Cross, laid out across the slopes of Yasna Hora. The believers' Procession of the Cross is fourteen stops, one at each cross.


Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

The first station is in the chapel beside the cemetery where the priests are buried.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross. The 1st station. The chapel.
Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross. The 1st station. The chapel.

Hoshiv Monastery. The cemetery where the priests are buried.
Hoshiv Monastery. The cemetery where the priests are buried.
Each station takes the form of a cross with reliefs depicting the sufferings of Jesus Christ.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

The next ones stand 40 — 50 metres apart from one another.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

You have to climb a steep ascent.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

They say that many pilgrims climb on their knees with prayers and lit candles, and if a candle goes out they turn back and begin the ascent again in penance.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

In Morshyn I once saw a pilgrimage procession, when believers from all around would gather into a single column and, with prayer books and holy icons, walk forty kilometres and more to the shrine.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

These were thousands upon thousands of people, many of them young, who walked not the way one walks on a hike or an outing. I know that no one compelled them to it.

Hoshiv Monastery. The chapel and the sculpture of Saint Thaddeus.
Hoshiv Monastery. The chapel and the sculpture of Saint Thaddeus.
Everyone went on the pilgrimage at the bidding of conscience and their own inner convictions, reciting prayers for peace in Ukraine along the way.

Hoshiv Monastery. The entrance gate.
Hoshiv Monastery. The entrance gate.
The first time I visited the Hoshiv Monastery it was on a tour led by Nataliia Fedorivna — a fascinating storyteller, a philologist from Lviv.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.

Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.
Hoshiv Monastery. The Way of the Cross.
The Holy Transfiguration Monastery was founded in 1509, at a time when the Ukrainian land was subjected to enemy raids. The monks had to move their cloister from place to place, hiding from the infidels in the remote tracts.

Hoshiv Monastery. The spring pavilion with healing water.
Hoshiv Monastery. The spring pavilion with healing water.
The foundations of the first monastery were uncovered in 2016 during excavations. According to legend, the Ukrainian nobleman Shumliansky turned to God with the question of where to build the monastery. The clouds parted and the sun blazed out over Yasna Hora, where the shrine now stands.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery
The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery
This Greek Catholic monastery of the Basilian Fathers, a monastic order that venerates Basil the Great, is better known as the Hoshiv Monastery, named after its patron Mykola Hoshovsky.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery. The church shop.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery. The church shop.
The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery. The church shop.

The chief relic of the cloister, and one of the most venerated among the faithful, is the icon of the Hoshiv Mother of God.

The image of the Hoshiv Mother of God

The first owner of this copy of the icon of the Czestochowa Mother of God was the standard-bearer Andrii Shuhai from the Ternopil region. Together with his daughters he was staying at the Hoshovskys' estate in a time of misfortune. When Shuhai's house burned down, the one wall left standing was the one on which the holy image hung. After the family departed, the image of the Most Pure One remained with the nobleman. A second miracle is recorded, when the face of the Mother of God shone out with an extraordinarily bright light. After this, with the blessing of Metropolitan Lev Sheptytsky, Hoshovsky handed the holy image over to the monastery.

The image of the Hoshiv Mother of God
The image of the Hoshiv Mother of God
The icon has been crowned twice — in 1746 by Metropolitan Andrey Sheptytsky and in 2009 by Pope Benedict XVI. The miraculous image is famed for numerous cases of healing. From the middle of the 19th century and for almost a hundred years the cloister grew and flourished.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

With the coming of Soviet rule the Greek Catholic Church was shut down, the monks exiled to Siberia, the church furnishings plundered, and the premises of the church were given over in turn to a warehouse, a holiday base and a boarding school.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

The miraculous icon was lost as well. Today the faithful turn to the face of a surviving copy, painted at the end of the 19th century. In 1990 the monastery was returned to the faithful. The church is always open, even when there is no service or tour.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

To reach the image of the Mother of God you have to climb a wooden staircase.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

There is no candle shop in the church. The candles lie by the stairs, and you can place your offering for them in a special box. But no one keeps watch over this. Nor will anyone reproach you for actions that some old ladies consider "wrong".

An artificial waterfall beside the church
An artificial waterfall beside the church
During services all the parishioners and pilgrims cannot fit inside the church, and so they pray in the churchyard.

The "Stone of Love" sculpture
The "Stone of Love" sculpture
For bad weather there are canopies.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery
The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery
Coming here every year, I notice significant changes.

The notice board
The notice board

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

Electronic bells have been installed in the belfry. For holding services, a rotunda with an image of the Queen of the Carpathians has been built on the square.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery. The rotunda

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery. The rotunda

From here a wonderful view opens out over the Subcarpathian region.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

The sculpture of the Mother of God is always in flowers. Streams of an artificial waterfall run down from the pedestal. The icon lamps here never go out.

The sculpture of the Mother of God
The sculpture of the Mother of God
The Way of the Cross ends at a symbolic Golgotha.

The 14th station of the Way of the Cross

The 14th station of the Way of the Cross
The 14th station of the Way of the Cross
Steps lead up the hill and down into the underground part.

The 14th station of the Way of the Cross

In the basilica stands a white marble sculpture of the crucified Jesus Christ, and fragments of the Life-Giving Cross of the Lord are kept there.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

The monastery grounds are well tended, with many evergreen shrubs and roses.

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

The Hoshiv Holy Transfiguration Monastery

A large area is set aside for a car park, and there are wooden gazebos.

The car park and the wooden gazebos
The car park and the wooden gazebos
A large new hotel of unusual design is now under construction. Its original appearance reminded me of cave-like monastic cells.

The construction of a hotel for pilgrims
The construction of a hotel for pilgrims
As you walk back down the steep asphalt descent, a panorama of Hoshiv opens out from the hillside.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region

The village, in the Dolyna district of the Ivano-Frankivsk region, was founded in the 14th century.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region

It lies in the picturesque valley of the Luzhanka River, a left tributary of the Svicha.

The bridge over the Luzhanka River
The bridge over the Luzhanka River
Around 2,000 people live here.

The bus stop
The bus stop
I spotted the school and the library right by the road.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The school.
Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The school.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The library.
Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The library.
The village has its own church.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The church

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The church

Beside the village council stands a monument to the soldiers of the Second World War.

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The village council

Hoshiv, Dolyna district, Ivano-Frankivsk region. The war memorial

In the southern part of Hoshiv, at the foot of Yasna Hora, stands the convent of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family.

The chapel by Yasna Hora
The chapel by Yasna Hora
From the village council you have to walk or drive about 3 kilometres. The gate and the door were open.

Hoshiv. The convent of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family.
Hoshiv. The convent of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family.
The resident sisters were working in the vegetable garden and busy with household chores.

Hoshiv. The convent of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family.

I went into the church, where there was no one; that is, anyone here who feels the need can be alone.

Hoshiv. The convent of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family.

The cloister was founded in the 1990s by Zenovii Krasovsky, a writer and public figure.

The memorial marker to Zenovii Krasovsky, the monastery's founder
The memorial marker to Zenovii Krasovsky, the monastery's founder
The monastery is a spiritual centre and provides substantial charitable aid to children from the ATO zone. The Hoshiv Monastery sits right by the Lviv — Ivano-Frankivsk highway: from Bolekhiv it is 4 km to the south, and from Dolyna 6 km to the north-west. Buses come every 15 minutes, so it is easy to get here. The trip always leaves the fondest impressions, which I share with you.

The sculpture of the Mother of God at the foot of Yasna Hora
The sculpture of the Mother of God at the foot of Yasna Hora



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