Wednesday, 9 August 2017

Sumy — a Tourist City?

For me, the city of Sumy long seemed a terra incognita.



It probably does too little to announce itself for tourist trips.

The Psel River
The Psel River

Kharkivska Street
Kharkivska Street

Soborna Street
Soborna Street
And that is a pity.

Pedestrian streets
Pedestrian streets

Kooperatyvna Street
Kooperatyvna Street
Even in a few hours' walk here you can see and learn a great deal that is interesting.

An 8-metre image of the Mona Lisa against the backdrop of the fields of the Sumy region
An 8-metre image of the Mona Lisa against the backdrop of the fields of the Sumy region
I came to Sumy from Konotop by bus and got off in the historic centre by the monument to the sugar magnate I. H. Kharytonenko, whose name I would keep coming across throughout my whole walk around the town.

A monument to I. H. Kharytonenko in the public garden of the same name
A monument to I. H. Kharytonenko in the public garden of the same name
Grateful residents erected a statue to their benefactor, who built churches and hospitals, as early as the end of the 19th century. But the Bolsheviks replaced the figure of the capitalist with a statue of the leader of the proletariat. As early as 1991 Sumy, one of the first cities in Ukraine, dismantled its monument to Lenin. Kharytonenko was returned to the pedestal.

At the beginning of the 20th century geologists tried unsuccessfully to find oil, and after the drilling a borehole was left. It was closed off with a slab and a gazebo was built.

The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
To the pseudo-Russian wooden style, elements of paganism and a Jewish star have been added. The openwork gazebo not only adorns the Kharytonenko park but has also become a calling card of the city.

The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
About the history of the Sumy region you can learn at the local history museum, housed in the building of the former Zemstvo administration of 1886.

The local history museum. 1886
The local history museum. 1886

The local history museum. 1886
The local history museum. 1886
Sumy is a city of theatrical traditions.

The Shchepkin Drama and Comedy Theatre
The Shchepkin Drama and Comedy Theatre
The Drama and Comedy Theatre moved to new premises in 1981, and before that it was housed on Pokrovska Street in a historic building of 1912, where the youth theatre is now located.

The youth theatre. 1912
The youth theatre. 1912
Beside the monumental building in the style of the Egyptian pyramids stands a sculpture of the founder of the theory of acting.

A monument to M. S. Shchepkin beside the theatre of the same name
A monument to M. S. Shchepkin beside the theatre of the same name
The regional centre has several prestigious higher education institutions. The law building of the banking academy is located in the building of the former girls' gymnasium, built in 1873 in the neo-Gothic style.

The former girls' gymnasium. The banking academy. 1873
The former girls' gymnasium. The banking academy. 1873
Building No. 2 occupied the premises of the former district court of 1917.

The former district court. The banking academy. 1917
The former district court. The banking academy. 1917
The main building was constructed in the 1980s on the site of a historic building, but all the architectural features have been preserved.

The banking academy. The main building
The banking academy. The main building
The clock on the tower was showing the exact time.

The banking academy. The main building
The banking academy. The main building
The palatial house of the patron Sukhanov houses the Institute of Applied Physics and other institutions.

The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics
The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics

The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics. An architectural monument. 1895
The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics. An architectural monument. 1895
Today an architectural monument, and from 1891 the Nobility Assembly.

The Nobility Assembly. 1891. The Philharmonic
The Nobility Assembly. 1891. The Philharmonic
The buildings are painted in caramel colours.

The historic centre
The historic centre
The blocks of Petropavlivska, Pokrovska and Soborna streets are the territory of the demolished Sumy fortress, the largest defensive structure of Slobozhanshchyna.

29a Soborna Street
29a Soborna Street
Every building is a piece of architectural creativity.

8 Pokrovska Street
8 Pokrovska Street
In the courtyard of a house on Pokrovska Street.

Pokrovska Street
Pokrovska Street
A new building of 2010 — the congress centre of Sumy State University.

The congress centre of Sumy State University
The congress centre of Sumy State University
An Evangelical church with elements of neo-Gothic.

The Evangelical church
The Evangelical church
The bakery's roof has been redone, but a cat has been walking on it since 1907.

Pokrovska Street. The bakery, 1907
Pokrovska Street. The bakery, 1907

Pokrovska Street. The bakery. 1907
Pokrovska Street. The bakery. 1907
The second building of the local history museum, with a storage collection of 45 thousand items.

The local history museum. The second building
The local history museum. The second building
A folk restaurant named after a favourite folk dish, 'Shalena Shkvarka' (Mad Crackling).

The 'Shalena Shkvarka' restaurant
The 'Shalena Shkvarka' restaurant
Above the historic centre rise ancient churches and cathedrals.

The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP

The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Church of St Elijah was built on an artificial hill in the middle of the 19th century.

The Church of St Elijah. 1851
The Church of St Elijah. 1851

The grounds of the Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The grounds of the Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral was built in 1782 and combined different styles: baroque, Renaissance and classicism.

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
And this is the only Orthodox cathedral in the world on which statues of the apostles are installed.

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The clock on the bell tower was showing the correct time.

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The bell tower. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The bell tower. UOC-MP

The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The clock. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The clock. UOC-MP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral was consecrated in 1702 and had defensive functions, its walls 1.5 metres thick.

The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP

The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. The bell tower. UOC-KP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. The bell tower. UOC-KP

The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
This is the first stone construction in the city.

The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP

The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
And those of glass, metal and concrete were built at the height of developed socialism.

The regional council. 1979. Architect Virchenko
The regional council. 1979. Architect Virchenko
A four-storey Stalinka of 1951 with a tower on the roof and shops on the ground floor.

32 Soborna Street. 1951. Architect Klochko
32 Soborna Street. 1951. Architect Klochko
In Lviv, Odesa, Mykolaiv, Kherson, Dnipro I have come across various sculptural depictions of lions. In Sumy the stone king of beasts offers quick money.

A sculpture of a lion
A sculpture of a lion
It is very pleasant to stroll along the pedestrian streets.

34 Soborna Street
34 Soborna Street

16 Voskresenska Street
16 Voskresenska Street

11 Voskresenska Street
11 Voskresenska Street

11 Voskresenska Street, the 'Mimino' restaurant
11 Voskresenska Street, the 'Mimino' restaurant

7 Voskresenska Street. The Treasury
7 Voskresenska Street. The Treasury

8 Voskresenska Street
8 Voskresenska Street

8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture
8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture

8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture
8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture

2 Voskresenska Street. The Museum of the Sumy Regiment
2 Voskresenska Street. The Museum of the Sumy Regiment
The cinema — an architectural monument of 1910.

Soborna Street. The cinema. 1910
Soborna Street. The cinema. 1910
On Voskresenska Street the fragrant lindens and other trees, whose names I shall let the readers suggest, were in bloom.

Sumy — a city of fragrant lindens
Sumy — a city of fragrant lindens

Sumy — a green and blossoming city
Sumy — a green and blossoming city
Sumy has its own Red Square, with the 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel

10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
and with lamps that resemble a palm tree.

10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
On the streets and squares one comes across a great many interactive sculptures. Any sweet-tooth can join the confectioner scooping sugar from a sack with a mug. The sculpture is a tribute to the memory of the Kharytonenko family.

A sculpture of the sweet-tooths
A sculpture of the sweet-tooths
The student resistance of 2004, when on the Prime Minister's instruction three Sumy universities were to be merged, is recalled by a sculptural composition in the Shevchenko public garden.

The Shevchenko public garden. A memorial sign in honour of the student resistance of 2004
The Shevchenko public garden. A memorial sign in honour of the student resistance of 2004
The Kobzar himself has been here since 1957.

The Shevchenko public garden. A monument to T. H. Shevchenko
The Shevchenko public garden. A monument to T. H. Shevchenko
All the best for the children. The building of the former treasury bank serves for the creative development of children and young people.

The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth
The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth

The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth
The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth
The Kozhedub Park is one of the popular recreation spots for the people of Sumy.

The Kozhedub Park
The Kozhedub Park

The Kozhedub Park
The Kozhedub Park

The Kozhedub Park
The Kozhedub Park
At the entrance to this green urban expanse, with its dozens of varieties of trees and shrubs, a monument to the most effective fighter pilot has been erected.

The Kozhedub Park. A monument to I. M. Kozhedub
The Kozhedub Park. A monument to I. M. Kozhedub
The park was founded in 1908; it was given to the residents of Sumy by the merchant Leshchynskyi as compensation for the pollution of the river during sugar production.

The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'Leshchynskyi Park. 1908'
The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'Leshchynskyi Park. 1908'
The arch-colonnade 'The Embankment' is located on the lower tier of the park, right by the Psel.

Sumy. The embankment of the Psel
Sumy. The embankment of the Psel

The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'The Town Embankment'
The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'The Town Embankment'
This wonderful river was favoured by Anton Chekhov, who lived in Sumy and received patients in 1888-1889.

The Kozhedub Park. A monument to A. P. Chekhov
The Kozhedub Park. A monument to A. P. Chekhov
The Kharkiv Bridge over the river leads to the modern residential districts.

The Kharkiv Bridge
The Kharkiv Bridge

The Kharkiv Bridge and Kharkivska Street
The Kharkiv Bridge and Kharkivska Street
On Heroiv Sumshchyny Street

Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The scientific library. 1987
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The scientific library. 1987

Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The 'Acropolis' business centre
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The 'Acropolis' business centre

Heroiv Sumshchyny Street
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street
an Alley of Glory has been created, with portraits of the heroes of the Second World War who were natives of the Sumy region.

Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The Alley of Heroes
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The Alley of Heroes
The pysanka is a symbol of rebirth, beauty, love and goodness.

Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. A pysanka
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. A pysanka
I did not manage to see the fountains in action.

The 'Sadko' fountain
The 'Sadko' fountain

The 'European' fountain. A memorial sign to the twin cities
The 'European' fountain. A memorial sign to the twin cities
A bridge over the Sumka River leads straight to the former Kharytonenko estate.

The bridge over the Sumka River. The Kharytonenko estate
The bridge over the Sumka River. The Kharytonenko estate
Sadly, the capitalist-benefactor's magnificent palace is in a pitiful state.

The Kharytonenko palace. 1914
The Kharytonenko palace. 1914
At this spot begins one of the most beautiful streets — Troitska.

Troitska Street. The regional union of consumer societies
Troitska Street. The regional union of consumer societies

Troitska Street. A building of the Alexander Gymnasium
Troitska Street. A building of the Alexander Gymnasium

Troitska Street. School No. 8
Troitska Street. School No. 8
Kharytonenko invited foreign specialists in the field of machine building to work at the factories. And so, at the beginning of the 20th century, a Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared in this Orthodox city.

Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901
Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901

Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901
Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901
The city's oldest educational institution is named in honour of Emperor Alexander III.

Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873
Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873

Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873
Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873
Built in 1873, the Alexander Gymnasium has not lost its educational purpose.

The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873. An architectural monument
The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873. An architectural monument
I have seen similar high reliefs in Bolekhiv in the Ivano-Frankivsk region.

Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs
Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs

Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs
Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs
The red-brick building is in need of restoration.

5a Troitska Street
5a Troitska Street

5a Troitska Street
5a Troitska Street
The Trinity Cathedral was built in the image of the most famous St Petersburg cathedrals with Kharytonenko's funds.

Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
An architectural monument of 1901, in Soviet times it was a museum and an organ music hall.

Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
In 1996 it was returned to the believers.

Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
The first children's hospital in the Russian Empire was built by the Kharytonenko sugar manufacturers in 1891. Children were treated free of charge. Now the regional health authority is located here.

Troitska Street. The St Zinaida Children's Hospital. 1896
Troitska Street. The St Zinaida Children's Hospital. 1896
My promenade ended, quite literally at dusk, in the park and estate of Asmolov, an entrepreneur, plant breeder and traveller, to whom exotic plants were brought from all over the world.

Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.
Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.

Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.
Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.
This long June day was very productive for me.


Sumy. The Psel
Sumy. The Psel
Of course, in a few hours' tour I did not manage to see much, but I can say that Sumy is a tourist city and there is something to see and somewhere to rest here.

The historic centre. Pedestrian streets
The historic centre. Pedestrian streets



This story is also available in Ukrainian: Суми – туристичне місто?

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