Wednesday, 9 August 2017

Sumy — a Tourist City?

For me, the city of Sumy long seemed a terra incognita.



It probably does too little to announce itself for tourist trips.

Суми. Річка Псел
The Psel River

Суми. Україна
Kharkivska Street

Суми. Вул. Соборна
Soborna Street
And that is a pity.

Суми. Пішохідні вулиці
Pedestrian streets

Суми. Вул. Кооперативна
Kooperatyvna Street
Even in a few hours' walk here you can see and learn a great deal that is interesting.

Суми. 8-метрове зображення Джоконди на фоні полів Сумщини
An 8-metre image of the Mona Lisa against the backdrop of the fields of the Sumy region
I came to Sumy from Konotop by bus and got off in the historic centre by the monument to the sugar magnate I. H. Kharytonenko, whose name I would keep coming across throughout my whole walk around the town.

Суми. Пам'ятник І. Г. Харитоненку
A monument to I. H. Kharytonenko in the public garden of the same name
Grateful residents erected a statue to their benefactor, who built churches and hospitals, as early as the end of the 19th century. But the Bolsheviks replaced the figure of the capitalist with a statue of the leader of the proletariat. As early as 1991 Sumy, one of the first cities in Ukraine, dismantled its monument to Lenin. Kharytonenko was returned to the pedestal.

At the beginning of the 20th century geologists tried unsuccessfully to find oil, and after the drilling a borehole was left. It was closed off with a slab and a gazebo was built.

Суми. Альтанка в сквері ім. Харитоненка
The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
To the pseudo-Russian wooden style, elements of paganism and a Jewish star have been added. The openwork gazebo not only adorns the Kharytonenko park but has also become a calling card of the city.

Суми. Альтанка в сквері ім. Харитоненка
The gazebo in the Kharytonenko public garden
About the history of the Sumy region you can learn at the local history museum, housed in the building of the former Zemstvo administration of 1886.

Суми. Краєзнавчий музей. 1886 р.
The local history museum. 1886

Суми. Краєзнавчий музей. 1886 р.
The local history museum. 1886
Sumy is a city of theatrical traditions.

Суми. Театр драми і комедії ім. Щепкіна
The Shchepkin Drama and Comedy Theatre
The Drama and Comedy Theatre moved to new premises in 1981, and before that it was housed on Pokrovska Street in a historic building of 1912, where the youth theatre is now located.

Суми. Театр юного глядача. 1912 р.
The youth theatre. 1912
Beside the monumental building in the style of the Egyptian pyramids stands a sculpture of the founder of the theory of acting.

Суми. Пам'ятник М. С. Щепкіну
A monument to M. S. Shchepkin beside the theatre of the same name
The regional centre has several prestigious higher education institutions. The law building of the banking academy is located in the building of the former girls' gymnasium, built in 1873 in the neo-Gothic style.

Суми. Колишня жіноча гімназія. Банківська академія. 1873 р
The former girls' gymnasium. The banking academy. 1873
Building No. 2 occupied the premises of the former district court of 1917.

Суми. Колишній окружний суд. Банківська академія. 1917 р.
The former district court. The banking academy. 1917
The main building was constructed in the 1980s on the site of a historic building, but all the architectural features have been preserved.

Суми. Банківська академія. Головний корпус
The banking academy. The main building
The clock on the tower was showing the exact time.

Суми. Банківська академія. Головний корпус
The banking academy. The main building
The palatial house of the patron Sukhanov houses the Institute of Applied Physics and other institutions.

Суми. Садиба Суханова. Інститут прикладної фізики
The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics

Суми. Садиба Суханова. Інститут прикладної фізики
The Sukhanov estate. The Institute of Applied Physics. An architectural monument. 1895
Today an architectural monument, and from 1891 the Nobility Assembly.

Суми. Дворянські збори. Філармонія
The Nobility Assembly. 1891. The Philharmonic
The buildings are painted in caramel colours.

Суми. Історичний центр
The historic centre
The blocks of Petropavlivska, Pokrovska and Soborna streets are the territory of the demolished Sumy fortress, the largest defensive structure of Slobozhanshchyna.

Суми. Вул. Соборна, 29а
29a Soborna Street
Every building is a piece of architectural creativity.

Суми. Вул. Покровська, 8
8 Pokrovska Street
In the courtyard of a house on Pokrovska Street.

Суми. Вул. Покровська
Pokrovska Street
A new building of 2010 — the congress centre of Sumy State University.

Суми. Конгрес-центр Сумського державного університету
The congress centre of Sumy State University
An Evangelical church with elements of neo-Gothic.

Суми. Євангельська церква
The Evangelical church
The bakery's roof has been redone, but a cat has been walking on it since 1907.

Суми. Вул. Покровська. Булочна
Pokrovska Street. The bakery, 1907

Суми. Вул. Покровська. Булочна
Pokrovska Street. The bakery. 1907
The second building of the local history museum, with a storage collection of 45 thousand items.

Суми. Краєзнавчий музей. Другий корпус
The local history museum. The second building
A folk restaurant named after a favourite folk dish, 'Shalena Shkvarka' (Mad Crackling).

Суми. Ресторан «Шалена шкварка»
The 'Shalena Shkvarka' restaurant
Above the historic centre rise ancient churches and cathedrals.

Суми. Свято-Ільїнська церква. 1851 р. УПЦ МП
The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP

Суми. Свято-Ільїнська церква. 1851 р. УПЦ МП
The Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Church of St Elijah was built on an artificial hill in the middle of the 19th century.

Суми. Свято-Ільїнська церква. 1851 р. УПЦ МП
The Church of St Elijah. 1851

Суми. Територія Свято-Ільїнської церкви. 1851 р. УПЦ МП
The grounds of the Church of St Elijah. 1851. UOC-MP
The Transfiguration Cathedral was built in 1782 and combined different styles: baroque, Renaissance and classicism.

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
And this is the only Orthodox cathedral in the world on which statues of the apostles are installed.

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. UOC-MP
The clock on the bell tower was showing the correct time.

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The bell tower. UOC-MP

Суми. Спасо-Преображенський собор. 1782 р. Годинник. УПЦ МП
The Transfiguration Cathedral. 1782. The clock. UOC-MP
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral was consecrated in 1702 and had defensive functions, its walls 1.5 metres thick.

Суми. Свято-Воскресенський собор. 1701 р. УПЦ КП
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP

Суми. Свято-Воскресенський собор. 1701 р. УПЦ КП
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. The bell tower. UOC-KP

Суми. Свято-Воскресенський собор. 1701 р. УПЦ КП
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
This is the first stone construction in the city.

Суми. Свято-Воскресенський собор. 1701 р. УПЦ КП
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP

Суми. Свято-Воскресенський собор. 1701 р. УПЦ КП
The Holy Resurrection Cathedral. 1701. UOC-KP
And those of glass, metal and concrete were built at the height of developed socialism.

Суми. Обласна рада. 1979 р. Архітектор Вірченко
The regional council. 1979. Architect Virchenko
A four-storey Stalinka of 1951 with a tower on the roof and shops on the ground floor.

Суми. Вул. Соборная, 32. 1951 р. Архітектор Клочко
32 Soborna Street. 1951. Architect Klochko
In Lviv, Odesa, Mykolaiv, Kherson, Dnipro I have come across various sculptural depictions of lions. In Sumy the stone king of beasts offers quick money.

Суми. Скульптура лева
A sculpture of a lion
It is very pleasant to stroll along the pedestrian streets.

Суми. Вул. Соборна, 34
34 Soborna Street

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 16
16 Voskresenska Street

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 11
11 Voskresenska Street

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 11, ресторан «Міміно»
11 Voskresenska Street, the 'Mimino' restaurant

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 7. Казначейство
7 Voskresenska Street. The Treasury

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 8
8 Voskresenska Street

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 8а. Управління градобудівництва і архітектури
8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 8а. Управління градобудівництва і архітектури
8a Voskresenska Street. The Department of Urban Planning and Architecture

Суми. Вул. Воскресенська, 2. Музей Сумського полку
2 Voskresenska Street. The Museum of the Sumy Regiment
The cinema — an architectural monument of 1910.

Суми. Вул. Соборна. Кінотеатр. 1910 р.
Soborna Street. The cinema. 1910
On Voskresenska Street the fragrant lindens and other trees, whose names I shall let the readers suggest, were in bloom.

Суми – місто духмяних лип
Sumy — a city of fragrant lindens

Суми – місто зелене і квітуче
Sumy — a green and blossoming city
Sumy has its own Red Square, with the 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel

Суми. Червона Площа, 10. Готель «Reikartz Суми»
10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
and with lamps that resemble a palm tree.

Суми. Червона Площа, 10. Готель «Reikartz Суми»
10 Red Square. The 'Reikartz Sumy' Hotel
On the streets and squares one comes across a great many interactive sculptures. Any sweet-tooth can join the confectioner scooping sugar from a sack with a mug. The sculpture is a tribute to the memory of the Kharytonenko family.

Суми. Скульптура ласунів
A sculpture of the sweet-tooths
The student resistance of 2004, when on the Prime Minister's instruction three Sumy universities were to be merged, is recalled by a sculptural composition in the Shevchenko public garden.

Суми. Сквер ім. Шевченка. Пам'ятний знак на честь студентського супротиву 2004 року
The Shevchenko public garden. A memorial sign in honour of the student resistance of 2004
The Kobzar himself has been here since 1957.

Суми. Сквер ім. Шевченка. Пам'ятник Т. Г. Шевченку
The Shevchenko public garden. A monument to T. H. Shevchenko
All the best for the children. The building of the former treasury bank serves for the creative development of children and young people.

Суми. Колишній банк. 19 ст. Центр розвитку дітей і юнацтва
The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth

Суми. Колишній банк. 19 ст. Центр розвитку дітей і юнацтва
The former bank. 19th c. The Centre for the Development of Children and Youth
The Kozhedub Park is one of the popular recreation spots for the people of Sumy.

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба
The Kozhedub Park

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба
The Kozhedub Park

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба
The Kozhedub Park
At the entrance to this green urban expanse, with its dozens of varieties of trees and shrubs, a monument to the most effective fighter pilot has been erected.

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба. Пам'ятник І. М. Кожедубу
The Kozhedub Park. A monument to I. M. Kozhedub
The park was founded in 1908; it was given to the residents of Sumy by the merchant Leshchynskyi as compensation for the pollution of the river during sugar production.

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба. Арка-колонада «Парк Лещинських. 1908 р.»
The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'Leshchynskyi Park. 1908'
The arch-colonnade 'The Embankment' is located on the lower tier of the park, right by the Psel.

Суми. Набережна Пселу
Sumy. The embankment of the Psel

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба. Арка-колонада «Міська Набережна»
The Kozhedub Park. The arch-colonnade 'The Town Embankment'
This wonderful river was favoured by Anton Chekhov, who lived in Sumy and received patients in 1888-1889.

Суми. Парк ім. Кожедуба. Пам'ятник А. П. Чехову
The Kozhedub Park. A monument to A. P. Chekhov
The Kharkiv Bridge over the river leads to the modern residential districts.

Суми. Харківський міст
The Kharkiv Bridge

Суми. Харківський міст і вул. Харківська
The Kharkiv Bridge and Kharkivska Street
On Heroiv Sumshchyny Street

Суми. Вул. Героїв Сумщини. Наукова бібліотека. 1987 р.
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The scientific library. 1987

Суми. Вул. Героїв Сумщини. Бізнес-центр «Акрополь»
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The 'Acropolis' business centre

Суми. Вул. Героїв Сумщини
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street
an Alley of Glory has been created, with portraits of the heroes of the Second World War who were natives of the Sumy region.

Суми. Вул. Героїв Сумщини. Алея героїв
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. The Alley of Heroes
The pysanka is a symbol of rebirth, beauty, love and goodness.

Суми. Вул. Героїв Сумщини. Писанка
Heroiv Sumshchyny Street. A pysanka
I did not manage to see the fountains in action.

Суми. Фонтан «Садко»
The 'Sadko' fountain

Суми. Фонтан «Європейський». Пам'ятний знак містам-побратимам
The 'European' fountain. A memorial sign to the twin cities
A bridge over the Sumka River leads straight to the former Kharytonenko estate.

Суми. Міст через річку Сумку. Садиба Харитоненка
The bridge over the Sumka River. The Kharytonenko estate
Sadly, the capitalist-benefactor's magnificent palace is in a pitiful state.

Суми. Палац Харитоненка. 1914 р.
The Kharytonenko palace. 1914
At this spot begins one of the most beautiful streets — Troitska.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Обласна спілка споживчих товариств
Troitska Street. The regional union of consumer societies

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Корпус Олександрівської гімназії
Troitska Street. A building of the Alexander Gymnasium

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Школа № 8
Troitska Street. School No. 8
Kharytonenko invited foreign specialists in the field of machine building to work at the factories. And so, at the beginning of the 20th century, a Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared in this Orthodox city.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Костел Пресвятої Діви Марії. 1901 р.
Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Костел Пресвятої Діви Марії. 1901 р.
Troitska Street. The Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. 1901
The city's oldest educational institution is named in honour of Emperor Alexander III.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Олександрівська гімназія. 1873 р.
Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Олександрівська гімназія. 1873 р.
Troitska Street. The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873
Built in 1873, the Alexander Gymnasium has not lost its educational purpose.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Олександрівська гімназія. 1873 р.
The Alexander Gymnasium. 1873. An architectural monument
I have seen similar high reliefs in Bolekhiv in the Ivano-Frankivsk region.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Будинок з горельєфами
Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Будинок з горельєфами
Troitska Street. A building with high reliefs
The red-brick building is in need of restoration.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька, 5а
5a Troitska Street

Суми. Вул. Троїцька, 5а
5a Troitska Street
The Trinity Cathedral was built in the image of the most famous St Petersburg cathedrals with Kharytonenko's funds.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Троїцький собор. 1901 р.
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
An architectural monument of 1901, in Soviet times it was a museum and an organ music hall.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Троїцький собор. 1901 р.
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
In 1996 it was returned to the believers.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Троїцький собор. 1901 р.
Troitska Street. The Trinity Cathedral. 1901
The first children's hospital in the Russian Empire was built by the Kharytonenko sugar manufacturers in 1891. Children were treated free of charge. Now the regional health authority is located here.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Дитяча лікарня св. Зінаїди. 1896 р.
Troitska Street. The St Zinaida Children's Hospital. 1896
My promenade ended, quite literally at dusk, in the park and estate of Asmolov, an entrepreneur, plant breeder and traveller, to whom exotic plants were brought from all over the world.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Парк і садиба Асмолова. 19 ст.
Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.

Суми. Вул. Троїцька. Парк і садиба Асмолова. 19 ст.
Troitska Street. The park and estate of Asmolov. 19th c.
This long June day was very productive for me.


Суми. Псел
Sumy. The Psel
Of course, in a few hours' tour I did not manage to see much, but I can say that Sumy is a tourist city and there is something to see and somewhere to rest here.

Суми. Історичний центр. Пішохідні вулиці
The historic centre. Pedestrian streets

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