Tuesday, 22 January 2019

Halych. A Modern Ancient Princely Town

Halych is one of the oldest cities in Ukraine and in Eastern Europe, its history reckoned from the year 898. In the 12th century the Galician-Volhynian princes chose Halych as their capital and turned it into a mighty political and spiritual centre. Let us see how modern-day ancient Halych is laid out and what landmarks make this district centre of the Ivano-Frankivsk region so rich.

Галич. Івано-Франківська область. Майдан Різдва
Halych. Ivano-Frankivsk region. Nativity Square

We shall not survey the whole territory of the princely town with its surrounding villages, where the citadel once stood. Let us instead stroll at the foot of Castle Hill and in the place where, in the years of the chronicles, the trading rows and the wharf lay.

The Starostyn Castle, raised in the 14th century on Halych Hill, can be seen at the entrance to the town and from any point in the surrounding area.

Галич. Дорожне кільце. Старостинський замок

The tourist popularity of this early-mediaeval fortress spurred the authorities, to some degree, to revive the historic monument. The restorers rebuilt, literally from ruins, a tower and a stretch of the defensive wall, but a large part of the fortification has not been conserved and stands in a state of complete decay.

Галич. Старостинський замок

As in every town, the main square holds great public and historical significance.

Галич. Майдан Різдва
Halych. Nativity Square

Scholars believe that a pagan sanctuary and an ancient temple once stood on the site of the central square.

Галич. Майдан Різдва

Administrative, residential and commercial buildings stand on Nativity Square.

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 17. Міська рада
Nativity Square, 17. Town hall

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 13
Nativity Square, 13

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Гараж під Замковою горою
Nativity Square. A garage beneath Castle Hill

Галич. Майдан Різдва. У четверолапих – сієста
Nativity Square. For the four-legged ones — a siesta

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 11а. Сучасна багатоповерхівка
Nativity Square, 11a. A modern high-rise

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Комерційна будівля
Nativity Square. A commercial building

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Комерційна будівля
Nativity Square. A commercial building

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Житловий будинок
Nativity Square. A residential building and a pharmacy
The People's House, the post office and the shopping complex have the features of palaces and castles, which is characteristic of the architecture of Prykarpattia.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Народний дім
Nativity Square. The People's House

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Пошта
Nativity Square. The post office

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Тороговий комплекс
 Nativity Square. The shopping complex

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Комерційна будівля
Nativity Square. A commercial building

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Комерційна будівля

A few of the townhouses have kept the architectural style of the Austrian and Polish periods.

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 17
Nativity Square, 17

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 18
Nativity Square, 18

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 20
Nativity Square, 20

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 22
Nativity Square, 22

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 33. Військомат
Nativity Square, 33. Military enlistment office

Галич. Майдан Різдва, 30
Nativity Square, 30
The central place on the square is taken by an equestrian statue of the first Ukrainian king. The monument to Danylo Halytskyi was raised in 1998 for the town's 1,100th anniversary. In 1238 the grand prince of Kyiv rode into Halych as a victor, having united the Galician and Volhynian lands. Among the achievements of this commander and diplomat is the appearance of the square and of the merchant quarters, which were laid out at the initiative of the founder of Lviv.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Пам'ятник Данилу Галицькому

The Church of the Nativity of Christ is part of the 'Ancient Halych' reserve complex.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова
Nativity Square. The Church of the Nativity of Christ
The shrine dates from the 13th-15th centuries, but researchers put forward theories of its earlier existence on the site of a wooden predecessor, which in its turn had replaced a pagan sanctuary.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова. Дзвіниця

The church's iconostasis is hewn from sandstone, and the holy images are set out in mosaic.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова.

Галич. Майдан Різдва. Церква Різдва Христова.

Over its centuries-long history the church has belonged to various brotherhoods and confessions; today it is used by the Greek Catholics. In 1906 Metropolitan Andrey Sheptytsky of the UGCC consecrated the church after yet another rebuilding.

Галич. Церква Різдва Христова. Пам'ятник Андрею Шептицькому
The Church of the Nativity of Christ. Monument to Andrey Sheptytsky
On the church grounds, in 1929, a monument was erected to the victims of the Austrian regime — the prisoners of the Thalerhof concentration camp, one of whom was Father Mykola, the rector of the Church of the Nativity of Christ. Of the 127 arrested Russophiles, residents of Halych, twenty were tortured to death.

Галич. Церква Різдва Христова. Пам'ятник жертвам концтабору Талергоф

The park of miniature monuments of Ancient Halych lets tourists acquaint themselves with the main sights and plan the further route of their journey.

Галич. Парк мініатюрних пам'яток

Галич. Парк мініатюрних пам'яток

And we shall carry on our walk across the 312-metre bridge of latticework trusses and admire the beauty of the mighty Dnister.

Галич. Пішохідний міст через Дністер

At this spot its current is calm and free of rapids.

Галич. Дністер. Набережна
Halych. The Dnister. The embankment
The opening of the new Chernivtsi-Stanislav-Lviv transport routes prompted the replacement, at the start of the 20th century, of the outdated wooden bridge with a metal one. Built in 1912, it was repaired more than once after being destroyed in the wars. With the opening in 1984 of a new road bridge, the old one now serves pedestrians, linking the southern and northern parts of Halych.

Галич. Автомобільний міст через Дністер
 The road bridge across the Dnister
In 1858 a column was unveiled in gratitude to the royal viceroy Goluchowski for his part in building the first permanent wooden bridge. The inscription on the memorial plaque is made in two languages — Ukrainian and German, the state language of the Austrian monarchy.

Галич. Пам'ятник-колона на честь Голуховського

An anchor found in the Dnister has been set up in memory of the founders of navigation on one of Ukraine's chief blue arteries.

Галич. Пам'ятник на честь фундаторів судноплавства
Monument in honour of the founders of navigation
The walk on foot passes from the bridge onto the recently opened Alley of the Heavenly Hundred.

Галич. Скульптура Ісуса Христа
A sculpture of Jesus Christ

Галич. Алея Небесної Сотні
The Alley of the Heavenly Hundred
The nondescript fence of the 'Sokil' sports complex has been adorned with bright panels, 250 sq m in all, depicting important events of Ukraine's recent history.

Галич. Спортивний комплекс «Сокіл»

Галич. Спортивний комплекс «Сокіл». Паркан з стінописами
The 'Sokil' sports complex. The fence with murals
On the way to the railway station there are a few stops by the mansions and two-storey residential houses built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.

Галич. Вул. Львівська. Школа № 2
Lvivska Street. School No. 2

Галич. Вул. Львівська. Школа № 2. Навчальний корпус
 Lvivska Street. School No. 2. The teaching block

Галич. Вул. Колійова, 2
Koliiova Street, 2

Галич. Вул. Колійова, 6
 Koliiova Street, 6

Галич. Вул. Колійова, 39
Koliiova Street, 39
Another place of worship in Halych, on Dmytro Vitovsky Street, the Church of St Demetrius, dates from 1831.

Галич. Вул. Дмитра Вітовського. Церква святого Димитрія. 1831 р.
 Dmytro Vitovsky Street. The Church of St Demetrius. 1831
The last shot on the station square, by the monument to the victims of the totalitarian Stalinist regime.

Галич. Привокзальна площа. Пам'ятник жертвам сталінського режиму

You can come to Halych by train from Kyiv, Chernivtsi, Dnipro, Kovel, Sumy, Lviv. From Hodoriv, Bolekhiv, Morshyn, Lysovychi, Dolyna, Kalush — by the suburban train Ivano-Frankivsk-Stryi.

Галич. Залізничний вокзал
Halych. The railway station
Getting there by road is not difficult, since various bus routes linking the Ivano-Frankivsk and Lviv regions pass through Halych.

Coordinates of the centre of Halych: 49°7'25"N 24°43'43"E.

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